Santiago (Paradiso), Chile

“One of my favorite places in the world.” – My wife

That’s the view from my Aunt Gloria’s apartment in Santiago. My wife and I found ourselves waking up to that view for one week in May 2013. My wife was five months pregnant, and some of our best friends in the world (The Korols) took over a year off from work to travel the world. The Korols were on the continent of South America in May 2013 and encouraged my wife and me to meet them in Santiago, where I have family, for our babymoon. They actually convinced us at a wedding in April in Austin, which was its own great time. But the week in Santiago in May 2013, with my dad’s family, and our Korol family, turned out to be one of the best weeks of my life.

It must have started when my family picked us up from the airport — Aunt Gloria, Natalia (cousin), and Paolo (basically cousin-in-law) — met us inside the airport with warm embraces and huge smiles. It was cold in Santiago, but warmth was a theme for the entire trip. I forget how loving my dad’s family can be, but am quickly reminded every time I see them. I miss that from him, and like being reminded of where it came from. The first night we went to an eccentric restaurant for dinner where the Korols met us. (NOTE: The Korols throughout our trip were impeccable — they met us whenever/wherever we said — and my family treated them like Aguirres). The food and drinks were wonderful, and there were antiques all over the restaurant. When the weather is nice, there are all sorts of interesting places to sit outside.

The next day we next took a trip to Valparaiso with Natalia (and Paolo), Felipe (and Diana), and Francisca (and Simon). A day-trip full of beautiful sites, chorriano, and cerveza. I remembered the colors of Valparaiso from previous visits, but they seemed brighter this time. We spent the rest of the week in various neighborhoods of Santiago. We went to the human rights museum that former (and now again) President Bachelet was instrumental in building, documenting the numerous injustices and abuses suffered by the Chilean people under the brutal dictator Pinochet. That was emotional for Paolo. We climbed the Cerro de la Virgen and then descended into the Bellavista neighborhood to eat steak and drink red wine. We spent time walking around Barrio Lastarria, shopping, eating and drinking. I remember fondly a rainy afternoon where we ducked into a bar, ordered two bottles of Chilean wine, had snacks, and talked to the Korols about everything.

One night, close to the apartment where the Korols were staying (thanks Air B&B!), we went to see one of Natalia’s favorite Chilean musicians — Jepe! She loves him, and I think Paolo loves Natalia enough to tolerate Jepe. I had been over-served earlier in the day, which led to me say some not-so-nice things about Jepe, which Natalia did not appreciate. But that show was at a local bar, which we never would have found without the knowledge of my family. Paolo and Natalia hosted us (yep, including the Korols) for dinner one night at their house — the house that Natalia grew up in with my Uncle Sergio. They cooked fish and multiple salads. It was raining and we were soaked from the walk, but nothing that some warm socks and wine couldn’t cure. The Korols also cooked for us one night in their rented apartment so Wilson and I could watch the Eastern conference finals between the Heat and Pacers. We had dragged everyone to a sports bar a few nights earlier to watch Heat-Pacers — the Chileans patiently navigated all the soccer games to find a channel showing the basketball game. We visited a vineyard close to Santiago, brought back a bottle of wine that we shared with the Korols months later in DC, and had an incredible brunch on our last day. Paolo also introduced us to the Terremoto (a cocktail) at one of his favorite bars, La Clinica.

Before going to the airport on our last day, we spent time at Felipe’s apartment with wine and food. We packed our bags and Felipe played Lana del Ray in the car as we drove around Santiago. I did not want to leave. Neither did my wife. I hadn’t felt that way in a while.

I’m sure I forgot several things in my recap. But once we got back, I told my wife something that I wanted to share here: that week had everything I want. I was surrounded by people that I love — my wife, the Korols, and my Chilean family. We explored together, we ate together, we drank together, we experienced together, and just spent time together. And the entire week we were all collectively wrapped up in that warm embrace that was delivered upon arrival at the airport. Plus, I felt my baby (boy) kick for the first time in Aunt Gloria’s apartment. My wife said she felt a cultural familiarity to how she grew up. She liked that, and I liked that.

So this is not only an opportunity for me to reminisce, but to say thank you, to my Aunt, my cousins, Paolo and Diana, and all of their gorgeous children, for allowing my wife, the Korols, and me to spend a week in paradise with them. We will all no doubt be back.